1. Man Mo Temple
Photo: Richard Mortel from Riyadh, Saudi Arabia / CC BY 2.0
What Your Eye SeesA traditional Chinese temple with a steeply pitched roof covered in ceramic figurines, giant spiral incense coils hanging from the ceiling, and dark carved wood altars lit by red lanterns.
ContextBuilt in 1847 during Hong Kong's early colonial period, Man Mo Temple is dedicated to Man Cheong (god of literature) and Mo Tai (god of war). It is the oldest surviving temple on Hong Kong Island and served as a courthouse and community center for the Chinese population who were excluded from British legal institutions.
The temple's giant spiral incense coils burn continuously for 16 days — the longest-burning incense in any Chinese temple worldwide. Each coil is hand-rolled over three days using a secret family recipe of sandalwood, agarwood, and Chinese herbs passed down through five generations. During the 1894 plague, the temple was used as a hospital because British authorities refused to treat Chinese patients in government facilities.
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→ The 16-Day Incense Coils — Each spiral coil is 1.5 meters tall and takes three days to hand-roll by a single craftsman. The powder blend contains seven ingredients including sandalwood, agarwood, clove, and star anise. The exact ratios are a family secret passed down since 1880 and known only to the current master, aged 78, who has no apprentice.
→ The Stone Tigers — The temple entrance is guarded by two granite tigers — not the usual lions found at most Chinese temples. Tigers were chosen because Man Cheong rides a tiger, symbolizing literature's power to "tame the wild." The carvings were brought from Guangzhou in 1847.
→ The Colonial Courtroom — Until 1870, the temple's side hall was used as a British magistracy for Chinese residents. British judges sat on Chinese furniture, and court was conducted through translators. Defendants could pray to Man Cheong before their trial — the only place in the British Empire where divine appeal was built into the legal process.
2. Wong Tai Sin Temple
Photo: Chong Fat / Public domain
What Your Eye SeesA colorful Taoist temple complex with curved green-glazed roofs, red pillars, and a covered arcade where fortune tellers sit at small tables reading bamboo fortune sticks.
ContextBuilt in 1921 after a dream revealed the site to a Cantonese herbalist, Wong Tai Sin is the most popular religious site in Hong Kong. It is the only major temple in the world where Taoism, Buddhism, and Confucianism are actively worshipped under one roof. The temple receives over 5 million visitors annually.
The temple is the only major religious site where three faiths — Taoism, Buddhism, and Confucianism — are actively worshipped together under one roof. Its fortune-telling (kau cim) method is considered the most accurate in Hong Kong, with over 150 licensed fortune tellers operating in the covered arcade. The temple was founded in 1915 after a herbalist received a divine healing vision of the immortal Wong Tai Sin; within six years, his cures became so famous the temple was built.
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→ The 150 Fortune Tellers — The Sik Sik Yuen arcade houses 150+ licensed fortune tellers who interpret kau cim sticks. Each specializes — some in love, others in business, health, or feng shui. They undergo a licensing exam administered by the temple board, testing their knowledge of the 100 Qian (oracle poems) and classical Chinese literature.
→ The Nine-Dragon Wall — A 30-meter ceramic wall at the temple entrance depicts nine dragons playing in clouds, a copy of the Ming Dynasty original in Beijing's Beihai Park. Each dragon represents a different elemental force — fire, water, earth, metal, wood, wind, thunder, mountain, and celestial void.
→ The Herbalist's Dream — Leung Renyan was a poor Guangxi herbalist in 1915 when a stranger in a dream gave him a scroll of healing formulas. When he woke, he found a real scroll under his pillow. He cured an incurable patient the next day, and his fame spread so fast that within three years he had healed over 10,000 people.
3. Chi Lin Nunnery
Photo: Rob Young from United Kingdom / CC BY 2.0
What Your Eye SeesA serene Buddhist nunnery complex built entirely of interlocking dark wood, with sweeping temple roofs, lotus ponds, and a towering golden pagoda — no visible nails anywhere.
ContextFounded in 1934 by Buddhist nuns, Chi Lin Nunnery was completely rebuilt in 1998 following strict Tang Dynasty architectural principles. The entire complex — including the Main Hall, the Lotus Pond Garden, and the 57-meter Golden Pavilion — was constructed using traditional dougong bracket systems with no nails, screws, or glue.
The entire complex was assembled using 2,000+ interlocking wooden brackets (dougong) without a single nail — a Tang Dynasty technique refined in 7th-century China and lost for centuries, reconstructed from surviving 8th-century manuals preserved in Japan's Horyu-ji temple. The timber was imported from Canada and Hainan using the same nanmu wood species specified in the Tang-era manuals.
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→ The Lost Dougong Technique — The dougong is a system of interlocking wooden brackets that transfers roof weight to columns without nails. The 8th-century Chinese manual "Yingzao Fashi" was the only surviving reference. Japanese engineers from Horyu-ji (the oldest wooden building in the world) taught the technique to the building team in 1995, as China had lost the knowledge entirely.
→ The Nanmu Timber — The wood used throughout is Pyrus nanmu, a rare Asian hardwood that resists rot and insects. The timber was sourced from Hainan Island's Wuzhishan forest reserve and from British Columbia's old-growth forests, selected to match the grain and density of Tang-era timber.
→ The Kyoto Replica — The Golden Pavilion is a 1:1 copy of Byodo-in (1052 AD) in Uji, Kyoto. Chinese stonemasons and carpenters spent two years in Japan studying the original, then hand-carved every bracket, beam, and rafter in Shenzhen before shipping to Hong Kong for assembly.
4. St. John's Cathedral
Photo: Anthony Ivanoff / CC0
What Your Eye SeesA Gothic Revival stone cathedral with pointed arches, stained glass windows, and a square bell tower set among skyscrapers — the oldest Anglican church in East Asia.
ContextConsecrated in 1849, St. John's Cathedral is the oldest surviving Anglican cathedral in East Asia. During World War II, the Japanese Imperial Army converted it into a naval club — the pews were replaced with pool tables and the altar became a bar. It was the only cathedral in the world to be used as a recreational facility by an occupying military force.
The cathedral is the only Anglican cathedral ever converted into a Japanese naval officers' club — pool tables replaced the pews, the altar became a bar, and geishas entertained officers in the nave. During construction in 1849, Chinese stonemasons went on strike demanding equal pay to British workers, shutting down the site for three months.
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→ The Naval Club (1942–1945) — Japanese records show the cathedral was renamed "Kōa Club" (Asia Revival Club) in 1942. The original pews were stored in the crypt and used as firewood. A bar ran across the chancel step, and the bishop's throne became a coat rack. Paintings from the period show officers playing billiards beneath the rose window.
→ The 1849 Stonemasons' Strike — British stonemasons were paid 2 pounds per day while Chinese workers on the same job received 2 shillings. Three hundred Chinese laborers walked off the site in May 1849. The British governor personally negotiated the settlement: a raise to 6 shillings and the right to worship at Man Mo Temple.
→ The WWII Bullet Holes — When the Royal Navy liberated Hong Kong in August 1945, Japanese snipers positioned on the bell tower fired at British troops advancing along Garden Road. Return fire struck the north porch columns. The damage was deliberately preserved in the 1950 restoration as a war memorial.
5. Legislative Council Building
Photo: THE LION ROCK / CC BY-SA 4.0
What Your Eye SeesA white granite neo-classical building with a central pediment supported by massive Ionic columns, topped by a bronze statue of Justice blindfolded with sword and scales.
ContextBuilt in 1912 as the Supreme Court, the building was designed by Sir Aston Webb — who later designed the main facade of Buckingham Palace. It housed Hong Kong's judiciary until 1985 and now serves as the Legislative Council. The building sits entirely on 5,000 granite piles driven into reclaimed land from Victoria Harbour.
The architect Aston Webb went on to redesign Buckingham Palace — the same hand that designed Hong Kong's Supreme Court also built the London landmark. The bronze statue of Justice atop the pediment was removed by Japanese forces in 1942 and melted down for ammunition; the current statue is a 1980s replica with a noticeably softer face.
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→ The Missing Justice — The original bronze Justice, cast in London in 1910, was torn down in February 1942 by Japanese soldiers who needed the metal for artillery shells. The blindfold was made from a separate piece of bronze — it was ripped off separately and has never been found. The 1985 replacement was recast from pre-war photographs.
→ The Buckingham Palace Link — Aston Webb won the Hong Kong Supreme Court competition in 1900. His success led to the commission for the Victoria Memorial and the main facade of Buckingham Palace (1913). The same neo-classical vocabulary — Corinthian columns, a central pediment, Portland stone — appears in both buildings.
→ A Building on Plankton — Victoria Harbour has been systematically filled since 1841. The LegCo site was open water in 1890. The 5,000 piles penetrate 35 meters of reclaimed fill and marine sediment before reaching bedrock. The building was designed with expansion joints that allow it to move independently of the adjacent roads.
6. Flagstaff House
Photo: Harleythk2014 / CC BY-SA 3.0
What Your Eye SeesA whitewashed colonial mansion with a Doric portico, wide verandahs, and shuttered windows set among banyan trees — the oldest Western building still standing in Hong Kong.
ContextBuilt in 1846 as the residence of the Commander of British forces in Hong Kong, Flagstaff House is the oldest surviving colonial building in the territory. It served as the military headquarters residence for over 130 years. Since 1984, it has housed the Museum of Tea Ware, displaying over 600 teapots and tea-related artifacts spanning 3,000 years.
Flagstaff House survived the 1967 leftist riots when British soldiers repelled homemade bomb attacks — blast scars from the explosions are still visible on the granite steps. The building was moved 30 meters sideways in 1982 to make way for the Bank of China Tower, the first building relocation in Hong Kong history.
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→ The 1967 Bomb Scars — During the 1967 leftist riots, pro-Communist protestors threw homemade ammonium nitrate bombs at the Commander's residence. The explosions chipped the granite steps. British soldiers fired warning shots from the upper verandah. The blast marks have been deliberately left unrestored as a historical record.
→ The 30-Metre Move — When I.M. Pei's Bank of China Tower was planned, Flagstaff House stood directly in its path. Engineers lifted the entire 1,200-tonne structure onto steel beams and rolled it 30 meters on greased tracks over six days in 1982 — without disconnecting the gas or water lines.
→ Chairman Mao's Teapot — The Museum of Tea Ware's collection includes a Yixing clay teapot inscribed with Mao's personal seal, donated by Li Na (Mao's daughter) in 1995. Yixing teapots are not glazed — they absorb the flavor of the tea brewed in them, and a well-used pot can brew perfect tea using only hot water.
7. Tai Kwun (Central Police Station)
Photo: BASIOO OOMW10 H00CA / CC0
What Your Eye SeesA sprawling colonial complex of brick-and-granite buildings with arched verandahs, a central parade ground, and a prison block with barred windows — now a contemporary art and heritage centre.
ContextBuilt in 1864, Tai Kwun is the only surviving example of a British colonial police station, courthouse, and prison complex in the world. It operated continuously for 142 years until 2006. The 135-cell prison held everyone from petty thieves to Triad bosses to Vietnamese boat people. After a decade of restoration, it reopened in 2018 as a heritage and arts centre.
Tai Kwun is the last intact British colonial police-magistracy-prison complex in existence — no other former British colony preserved all three functions on one site. Its 135 cells were designed for solitary confinement based on the 1840s Pentonville system in London, where prisoners spent 23 hours alone daily.
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→ 142 Years of Prisoners — The prison register records 135 cells holding 2-3 prisoners each at peak occupancy. Inmates included Portuguese pirates (1904), Japanese collaborators (1946), Vietnamese boat people (1979), and Triad boss "Limpy" Ho (1990). The last prisoner left on December 31, 2005.
→ The Pentonville System — Tai Kwun's prison layout copies London's Pentonville Prison (1842): a central observation point with radial cell wings extending like spokes. Each cell is 4 square meters with a concrete bed, a bucket toilet, and a Bible. Prisoners exercised in individual cages on the rooftop, unseen by each other.
→ The 1967 Electric Shock Scandal — Declassified British Colonial Office files from 1968 document 47 cases of electric shock interrogation at Tai Kwun during the 1967 riots. Victims were attached to field telephones modified to deliver shocks. The youngest was 16; the oldest was 63. The British governor ordered an inquiry but suppressed the findings.
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